Oral History Interview with Charles Houston, 2000 August 23. Tape 4, Side A.
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Interview begins with Charles Houston describing his personal life and his childhood, including travelling as a child with his family. Houston detailed his pranks as a child and punishments. Also discussed his fascination with the American Civil War. Discussed academic career at Harvard and medical school at Columbia. In 1937, American Alpine Club asked Houston to organize an expedition to K2. Detailed a few stories from his time practicing medicine. Houston explained how he enlisted in Navy before Pearl Harbor and served for 6 years. Houston discussed his experiments and research regarding acclimatization, oxygen deprivation, and his work with Operation Everest. Discussed his move to New Delhi, India after joining the Peace Corps in 1962. Detailed the case of Alex Drummond (Ron Cox) at Snow Mass Peak where Houston discovered HAPE, High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, and his ensuing high altitude research as director at the Mount Logan Project. Houston described his climbs in France, Germany, the Adirondacks, the Alps, Mount Everest, the White mountains, and more. Houston also detailed many of his relationships with fellow climbers and his decision to quit climbing after an episode of global amnesia.